Allen Meadows - Score: 93 (2020 November)

A discreet application of wood serves as a relatively neutral backdrop for the prominently floral-suffused and airy aromas of citrus, apple, iodine and oyster shell. There is fine volume and richness to the sappy and seductively textured flavors thanks to the abundant amount of dry extract that also serves to buffer the moderately firm acid spine shaping the saline and bitter lemon-inflected finish. This isn't quite as dense as the best of these 1ers, but the combination of elegance and sheer persistence make this is seriously good Vaillons. Note that this too should age well over the next decade and perhaps even a bit longer.